Tuesday, 13 October 2015

Caste Dining in Monaco

Sorry, you're just not fancy enough
While I was having my hair done at my favourite salon in Monaco recently, I was chirping away to my long-time hairdresser Jean-Louis about the fabulous lunch I'd just had at a newish Lebanese restaurant in Monaco called Oliban.

It was the third time I'd dined there in 6 months.  The first time was with good friends from Canada, the second was with two fab American friends, and again a week ago with five of my foodie girlfriends for a Vegetarian Supper Club lunch.  They hit it out of the park each time.

Oliban is perched atop Monaco's oldest traditional food market, Le Marché de la Condamine.  It's easy to get to on foot, there's ample parking if you're driving, and four of Monaco's six bus routes stop nearby. All of that convenience aside, I keep going back because the staff are gracious and accommodating, the dining room is beautifully decorated, and they use linen table cloths and napkins, catering to a little ideé fixe of mine that all restaurants should have linens. But above all, the food is outstanding.  To find all of these qualities in one restaurant  in Monaco is truly a miracle to be celebrated, tweeted and shared.

I thought, therefore, that Oliban had a winning formula but apparently not.  Joe, a long time Monaco resident and go-to guy for what's-what and who's-who in the Principality, burst my bubble.

"Jennie," he said with his hypnotic French accent.  I love that he calls me Jennie. "How was the food?" he asked, frowning.

"Excellent" I said.  "It was fresh, delicious, they did a great job on presentation. It was some of the best Lebanese food I've ever eaten." I showed him photos of some of the dishes I'd taken on my phone. While he took a look I added, "The service was great too and it wasn't that expensive."

Oliban's delivery.  Your fresh vegetables have arrived
"Well," he said, looking at me in the mirror, scissors in one hand, chin in the other. "I don't think it will last."

What?  How could he think it wouldn't last? I presented my case.

"The food is amazing, the staff's great, they use real linen, and I saw crates of fresh vegetables and melons being delivered there this morning."  That to me was the best part - I counted six cases of fresh parsley alone.

"Mais, no," he said, "but that's not how it works here. You should know that," he scolded me with a "tsk tsk" noise for effect.

He continued... "You know the nouveau riche, and (he turns up his nose) you know, les snobs would never go there because there's no voiturier, (guy to park your car) it's above the Marché and les snobs would never be seen at any restaurant on top of the market.  It's not chic.  Not the place to see and be seen.  They don't care about the food."

His declaration crashed down on my newly coiffed head and for the rest of the day it slowly dawned on me that he'd made an important point. In Monaco, and probably elsewhere, whether we admit it or not, there's a caste system for most things and dining is one of them.

Excellent Tabouli, good friends and linen
I'd always thought I was more or less an egalitarian diner but in the same way that some restaurants in Monaco aren't my scene because they cater to perfumed Pucci posers, places like Oliban was not theirs.

After my conversation with Jean-Louis I've been thinking about my own food caste system. For example, in Monaco I'd never go to the tourist restaurants, (lower caste) because the food is mediocre and you feel as though you're being processed and taken advantage of.  

Then again, I've dined at roadside chip wagons and food trucks but only if the food is excellent.  In Hong Kong I've sat at a cracked plastic stool at one of the most dodgy looking street food joints you could imagine simply because they served some of the best tofu pudding in Kowloon.  Both definitively lower caste.

Probably the highest caste restaurant I've dined in is Monaco's über-luxe, three Michelin-starred Le Louis XV now "Alain Ducasse at the Hotel de Paris." At first glance, paying €230 for their Menu Jardin, a 4-course Tasting Menu may seem expensive but if you add in all the extra goodies like the amuse bouche, the herbal infusion tea cart, grand finale marshmallow and ice cream course, flawless service and the sumptuous room, it's a steal. I've always left there feeling as though I were floating on a cloud and it had been well worth the price.

I think to be a true food lover is to abandon pretension and a caste system of dining altogether and just eat.  I think the goal of authenticity, good food and service should be what makes a worthwhile dining experience - not if there's a voiturier or if you'll be seen.  We have enough of those. 

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

Little Kitchen by David Forestell

The serene and soothing Little Kitchen
During our annual visit to Hong Kong last year, our friend, chef David Forestell and his wife Vivian invited us to dinner at their tiny apartment in Sai Wan Ho. When I say tiny apartment, I mean tiny apartment. It was a tight fit for we three strapping Canadians and the petite and pregnant Vivian all at the same time.

Our dinner was fabulous. 

For hours, David effortlessly brought dish after deliciously crafted dish from the kitchen and as we feasted we talked about our mutual love for tea and food, the pending arrival of the baby, and David and Vivian's preparations for opening a new restaurant that they would eventually call "Little Kitchen."

When dinner was done and we could eat no more, I asked to see the kitchen, imagining that since David was a professional chef, it would be massive.  I was wrong.  The kitchen was about the size of 4 telephone booths stuck together.  I was speechless.  How could he create such a stunning feast in so small a space?

I left their apartment that night in silent admiration for David's talents and a spoken promise to never complain about the size of my own kitchen again.

Not long after our dinner, David opened his Little Kitchen a few blocks from his and Vivian's apartment in Sai Wan Ho and when he invited us to be his guests again it's all we could talk about in the days leading up to it.

To say that Little Kitchen was an unique dining experience is not really doing it justice. David has created something exceptional that begins with the colourful walk from the MTR (Hong Kong's subway) through the lively streets of Sai Wan Ho.
A few of the colourful food shops along Shing On Street

Sai Wan Ho is not a neighbourhood that caters to tourists. It's a slightly gritty, down to earth sort of place with a steady hum of traffic noise, buzzing crowds, towering high-rise apartment buildings and no English signs nor speakers.

We took the MTR from Kowloon where we were staying to the Sai Wan Ho stop, and climbed our way back into the light of day.  After crossing the busy, crowded main street, we made our way to Shing On Street which was lined with shops piled high with fruits, vegetables, dry goods and heaps of medicinal herbs, many of which we couldn't identify. Most of the shops had chaotically plunked bins of this and that outside on the sidewalks turning them into culinary labyrinths making them difficult to negotiate given the number of other people trying doing the same.  We turned left.
Top left then clockwise:  a little ginger visitor.
"Up the back" alleyway behind Little Kitchen.
A nearby food vendor where David sources some of his ingredients
Look up - Little Kitchen is on the second floor.
On the second floor of a 6-storey turquoise-coloured building on Sai Wan Ho Street, festooned with hanging laundry, peeling paint, tangled electrical wires, and air conditioners clinging to window sills for dear life, is Little Kitchen.
Circle marks the spot
"Those who know, come up the back," reads the website.  "The back" being a gritty, somewhat dubious-looking alleyway. We chose to enter through the front which is a shared with the other building tenants.  We climbed the narrow staircase with a father and son who were headed home for the night.  

After our colourful journey we weren't sure what to expect when we arrived but any uncertainty that had formed in our minds went "poof" the minute we walked through the door. The light, the decor and the greeting combined to give the room a zen-like, soothing ambiance.  We instantly felt relaxed, and looking forward to dinner.

Because we'd arrived early, we snagged a coveted table facing the open kitchen so we could watch David at work at the stove and the pass.   Behind us were tall windows facing the street that filled the room with daylight that gradually transitioned into an ever-changing light show thanks to the outdoor neon signs hanging from the buildings across the street.
The view from our table
Our dinner was truly delicious. 

David prepared a special, five course vegetarian menu for us that began with a glass of carrot soup topped with goat cheese foam and ended with fresh mint tea and a little paper bag filled with delicate, just-baked sablées to take home. 
Non-vegetarian diners are treated to David's creative, seasonal, prose-like fixed menu that changes each week.  

Here's this week's menu:

Artichoke Salad: Variations on Theme, 
Counterpoints of Bitter, Sweet and Herbal

French Duck and Lentils: 
Tamed and Rigorously Formed, 
Accents of Sour, Caramelization and Concentration

MSC Atlantic Cod: Sustainably Caught, 
Substantiated with Ocean Memories, 
Summer Hopes and Green Intensity

Really Red Cherries: Multiple Renderings, 
Supported by Richness, 
Sweet/Tart Balance, and Crunch

Top left then clockwise:
Teaware, David plating,
the sturdy dining tables designed by David
David plating,
We loved everything about Little Kitchen.  We loved the contrast between the quirky outside setting and the peaceful, pristine, zen-like inside.   We loved sitting at the thick wood dining tables that David designed himself.  We loved the unique dishware and the feel of the paper thin glassware that he'd brought back from Japan.  And above all, we loved the food.

Despite what culinary magazines lead you to believe, finding a chef like David with the confidence and skill to express his unique culinary vision is rare to find. If you're in Hong Kong you should go.

We can hardly wait to visit again next year. 

Fresh herbs on the back balcony

Top left, then clockwise: look for the Little Kitchen sign
Holiday decoration
Dishware from Japan
The business cards mimic the floor tiles

Saturday, 13 December 2014

Culinary Curiosity and the Urchin

Saturday morning is my favourite time to go to food market in Menton.

It's the one day of the week when the market swells with local producers who bring their delicious, fresh products from the countryside to town to sell to appreciative customers like me. It's also cheaper than my regular market in Monaco and always a great opportunity to people watch.

A typical crowded Saturday in the Menton market
On Saturdays the market closes at 1:00 so if you arrive after 10:00, the crowds are thick and the side walks are narrow so you get pushed and shoved, squished, and elbowed like a bargain hunter on Black Friday.  And believe me, older French women take no prisoners when it comes to scooping up the last handful of spinach or bunch of carrots even if its not their turn.